MUST SEE HEBREW VIDEO - PROPHECY
http://www.torahohr.net/gogumagog/...................................................
THE FOLLOWING IS A MOVIE EVERYONE SHOULD SEE AND YOU MUST MAKE YOUR OWN EVALUATION ABOUT THIS SHOCKING MOVIE.
GO TO - http://zeitgeistmovie.com/
DISCLAIMER AND PERSONAL COMMENTARY: I can not tell anyone what to believe or what to do, but I have my own opinions. As my health declines I will still take in trigger work for carry people or military or special ops or police in harms way. I DO NOT TEACH GUNSMITHING OF ANY KIND, all I can do is point some one in the right direction. My action work is legendary and second to none but I will take it all to the grave with me. THIS IS MY CHOICE.
I had my son eliminate all my sight work off my price list on my website. I will cut down on the no charge free painting of sights that I have always done. I WILL NOT SEAL ANY SIGHTS WITH EPOXY FOR ANYONE. I WILL NOT DO ANY WORK UNLESS THERE IS A METHOD OF PAYMENT UP FRONT. This is the way it must be done. If a person wants a copy of an old invoice you must provide me with the name and year which the work was done, nothing is computerized, its all in loose leaf books organized by year only. If you have bought a handgun that I did you must know the original owners name that the work was done under.
As for my religous beliefs, I am quite religous and have been reading HEBREW since I was 7 years old. I believe in the G-D of Moses, Abraham, Isaac, & Jacob, and nothing else. I spend all my spare time reading the Bible and related prophecy books, & the book of Prophets. I never read gun books or gun magazines. I will answer all emails in a timely fashion but its best to call me at 281 565 6977 as sometimes I get so many emails they get away from me.
I have gone to a great deal of trouble to provide you with things you can not find most any place else. My day starts at about 5 am, but its best to call me most any day after 10 am central time. I hope you will realize my sincerety and honesty and the quality of my work.
Thankyou,
Teddy
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The Hi Power and Hammer Bite
By Stephen Camp
The Hi Power's hammer biting the hand that holds it is not an uncommon problem for many of us. Usually, it is not all that difficult to cure.
This affliction usually occurs when the tip of the hammer spur hits the shooting hand behind the pistol's abbreviated tang. Folks who are bitten by the spur hammer will usually get the same if using the factory ring hammer which is the hammer almost always seen on the Practical out of the box.
Folks bitten by the Hi Power usually fall into three categories:
1. Those who get hit by the rear of the hammer spur or the lower rear of the factory ring hammer.
2. Those who get the web of the hand pinched by the rear of the hammer shank and tang.
3. Those who get bit for the reasons cited in both #1 and #2!
I fall in with the first group and have found that the easiest way to rid myself of this problem is to bob the hammer spur off at about the second lateral serration from the rear of the spur. This is a small amount, but it makes a huge difference for me.
The hammer on the left is factory and is stock. I bobbed the one shown on the right using a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel and then reshaped using files and stones. I then cold blued to refinish. (I heated a small amount of cold blue in a plastic cap in the microwave for a very few seconds and this did help the degreased hammer surface to take an even blue.
Here you can see the bobbed hammer atop the factory. Not much metal is removed, but the relief for me has been very well worth it. I do not find the hammer hard to manipulate with the slightly shortened spur. The miniscule loss of weight doesn't come close to causing light primer strikes. With the original mainspring, the bobbed hammer will fire any 9mm ammo I've tried and probably any in the world.
Usually taking the steps mentioned above will solve hammer bite from the Hi Power for most people. Another option is to use a C&S Type I rowell (ring) hammer. This hammer is very similar to the old "Commander" hammer seen on 1911 pistols with the ring being more circular than the FN factory ring hammer. The C&S hammer does not extend as far rearward as the factory hammer. You can see pictures of it here:
If you pistol has a spur hammer and a good trigger pull, I'd simply bob it. If you go with the C&S ring hammer, you really need to go with their sear as well. It's harder than the factory sear and using their hammer with the factory sear does not result in a stable trigger pull for more than about 2K rounds in my experience. If you get the hammer and the sear, you will probably have to have a trigger job as well. This is considerably more expensive than just bobbing the spur or bobbing and having a trigger job done.
If you are in group #2, click to the next page after clicking on the link above to see the C&S "no bite" version of the Type I ring hammer. What it amounts to is that the shank is relieved so that the lower portion of the shank doesn't get close enough to the tang to pinch. These are sold in blue and hard chrome and sets with the hammer and sear are available.
Taking one of the approaches described above usually solves hammer bite problems for folks in groups 1 & 2. A gunsmith can also remove the lower portion of the factory ring hammer should this be desired. This is harder than it looks, especially in reshaping, and I suggest one hire a gunsmith for it. Some gunsmiths can make your existing spur or ring hammer into a "no bite" hammer like the C&S. If your pistol already has a great trigger pull, but you get pinched all of the time, this is an option that will save you the cost of a trigger job and C&S parts. The relief cut on the shank of a factory spur hammer as well as bobbing it should solve the problem for almost all the folks bitten by their Hi Powers. Ditto using the C&S parts.
If you are "lucky" enough to be one who finds no relief, several of the name Hi Power gunsmiths like Novak's, Bill Laughridge, Ted Yost, or Gartwaite (and others) can weld an extended tang onto your Hi Power. This is expensive and requires that the frame be refinished, but this will solve the problem.
The C&S Type I abbreviated ring hammer is shown on the 9mm Mk III below the CZ-75. I'm "lucky" with both guns. Despite its longer tang, I had to bob the spur hammer on the Pre-B CZ-75 to avoid hammer bite.
